Kamakhya Devi Story

It revolves around the Hindu gods Shiva and Sati.

King Daksha, father of Sati, organized a great yajna, where he invited all the deities, gods and sages but consciously excluded his son-in-law Shiva to insult him.

Hurt by her father’s decision, Sati decided to visit her father and demand the reason for not inviting them. When she entered Daksha’s palace, she had to listen to the insults directed towards the Shiva. Unable to bear anything against her husband, a devastated Goddess Sati threw herself in the glowing sacred fire of yajna.

When Shiva came to know of what had happened, his anger knew no limits. Carrying his wife’s burnt corpse, he went on a rampage with his ‘Tandav‘ or the dance of destruction. While all other gods cowered in fear under Lord Shiva’s rage, Lord Vishnu using Sudarshan Chakra cut Sati’s body, in order to calm the aggrieved deity.

These pieces fell on earth at various places and came to be known as Shakti Peeths. All these 51 places are considered to be holy lands and pilgrimages.

Architecture of Kamakhya Temple

The temple consists of four chambers: one garbhagriha (inner sanctum) and three mandapas (pillared hall).

These mandapas are generally aligned from east to west. The temple has a beehive-like structure which is very characteristic of lower Assam. The Kamakhya temple essentially follows the Nagara style of architecture of North India. The sculptures are apparent mostly on the exterior walls as well as on the interior walls of the temple. A few sculptures also exist on the temple gates.

The western mandapa is large and rectangular and is not used by the general pilgrims for worship. The middle mandapa is square, with a small idol of the Goddess. The walls here contain sculpted images of Naranarayana, related inscriptions and other gods. The middle mandapa leads to the sanctum sanctorum of the temple.

Significance of Kamakhya Temple

The feminine divinity in Hinduism, Shakti (power), is considered to be the greatest creative force in the universe. Kamakhya is a celebration of this ‘shakti’ within every woman, the shakti to create life by giving birth.

The Kamakhya temple is associated with feminine sexuality, fertility and the very origin of all living beings which is why the deity Kamakhya Devi is fondly called the bleeding Goddess. The sexual organs of Shakti are present in the sanctum sanctorum and worshiped by devotees.

Most important Festivals and Celebrations around Kamakhya mandir

Ambubachi Mela is one of the most important festivals celebrated during the monsoon season. This takes place in mid-June which is the celebration of the yearly menstruation course of goddess Kamakhya. The temple is closed for 5 days and opens on the 6th day with grand fervor. It is said that the Brahmaputra river turns red during these 5 days.

Another annual celebration is the Manasha Puja. Durga Puja is also celebrated annually at Kamakhya during Navaratri in the autumn.

My experience at Kamakhya temple Guwahati

I reached the temple premises at 7:15 am, much before the opening of gates at 8:00am. Walking through the approach road surrounded by shops selling puja items, souvenirs and sweets to be offered, I refused to turn my neck towards the sides and ignored the calls of the shopkeepers. I walked straight to the temple.

I was not sure at this point as to what to expect while visiting the Kamakhya temple. The temple was already packed with devotees wanting to pay their respects to Maa Kamakhya.

There were clearly two queues (just like most temples) where one queue was paid also called ‘VIP Darshan’ and the other one was free. VIP Darshan queue is a paid queue wherein you can reach the inner temple. The fee is Rs. 500 per person and it takes between 2-3 hours to reach. The other queue is free and could take 5-6 hours to reach the inner sanctum. Since I was in a time crunch I chose the paid queue.

During the waiting time I couldn’t help but notice the number of goats in the temple premises.

These goats were brought here for tantric (black magic) purposes that is to sacrifice a life to appease the god in exchange of something desirable for the human being. I have absolutely detested this concept of exchange of life for a worldly pleasure and do not believe that it works – after all all lives exist on earth with God’s permission. There were baby goats and chickens with red tika on their forehead. There were dozens of pigeons with gulal (red powder) on their bodies fluttering around. I found this to be weird for a temple complex since such scenes are not commonly seen anywhere.

Moving at a snail pace, somewhere around 10am, that is 2 hours after the gates opened, I was finally close to reaching the inner sanctum or garbhagriha – the main part of the temple.

It is a small cave below the ground level. I climbed down steep rock steps in order to reach the garbhagriha. The steps width is small which made it possible for only two people to pass and the entire area was pitch dark. There were only a couple of lamps providing the light and I had to make my way to the deity.

The garbhagriha has no image or sculpture, but a Yoni or a vagina-shaped rock fissure which is the main deity.

It was completely covered with flowers and other offerings so I could not see its shape or tell if it resembled a vagina. People were allowed to touch this rock and women were encouraged to touch the rock by the priest.

This rock fissure was wet with a small pool of water and people touched it and then patted their forehead with it. I even saw a few take a quick sip from their hand. The fissure gets filled via an underground natural water spring.

I climbed back those steep steps to come out of the complex. I was in the inner sanctum for probably less than 2 minutes and I felt extremely claustrophobic and anxious because of the dark and crowd. No, I did not feel any different vibe or energy – just people pushing each other and the priests shouting instructions so that the crowd moves quicker just like I had experienced in Trimbakeshwar Temple.

Best time to visit Kamakhya Temple Guwahati

Month wise, Guwahati is pleasant during winters so it is best to visit then. Time wise, afternoons are the best to visit the temple to avoid the crowds.

The Kamakhya temple timings are open 8:00 am to 1:00 pm and 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm everyday except during Ambubachi festival.

Kamakhya Temple Location

Kamakhya Temple is located on Nilachal Hills in the western part of Guwahati near the Guwahati Railway Station and around the Brahmaputra river. While the main temple is of utmost importance, the temple is located in a complex which consists of several temples. There are temples of 10 Mahavidyas in and around the temple.

How to reach Maa Kamakhya Temple

Being one of the important shrines in the city, Kamakhya temple Guwahati is easily accessible from anywhere in the city. Autos, private taxis as well as Ola and Uber are easily available even at 5 am to reach the temple.

Is Kamakhya temple Open right now?

With the ever changing COVID-19 guidelines by the Assam state and the country it is best to check before going. More details can be found on their official website.

Sustainable tips to visit Kamakhya Mandir

• Like every Hindu temple, devotees are not allowed to wear shoes. Do not wear socks as the premises have many areas with water and gulal. The inner sanctum also is wet due to the natural spring.
• Respect the Hindu culture and do not wear clothes that show too much skin. Cover your shoulders and knees.
• Keep your mobile phone away while entering the temple sanctum.
• Throw your garbage in the dustbins located at the entrance of each temple.
• Priests in the temple may offer to conduct some puja or push you to touch something and then demand money. Gently fold hands and do not touch anywhere or talk to the priests unless you want to conduct a sacrifice or puja or abhishek.
• Keep away from the place where they conduct ‘bali’ or tantric puja of sacrificing goats. It may be disturbing for some.

Do Indian temples fascinate you? Read about Chidambaram Temple or Modhera Sun temple.

Disclaimer: This article includes affiliate links. It means it adds no extra cost to you if you book through the link but I get a referral bonus which helps me earn a little to keep this website up and running.

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Manas Spring Festival Experience: Gunzema Bodo Ethnic Experience 

For this 2 day festival, transportation was arranged from Guwahati which had many pick points to chose from. A small bus full of enthusiastic travel bloggers from across the country gathered to enjoy the Manas Spring Festival.

And the journey started covering 140 km between Guwahati and Manas.

3 hours into the journey, the landscape started changing. The famous Assam tea gardens were visible on both sides of the road. The bus then turned towards the protected area and stopped at a fenced area which said Gunzema.

The area looked vibrant with tents pitched at one side, stalls on the other and a lot of local people in traditional attires.

We were excited to check out what was in store at this festival. We were allotted tents wherein we put away our luggage and started exploring around. Over the next 2 days, we experienced responsible tourism is its most authentic and rustic form.

Sustainable food

Food plays the most important part of any festival and Manas Spring Festival was no different. The local villagers showed some extraordinary culinary skills to showcase lip-smacking food with locally procured produce. Freshwater fish, eel, silkworm, chicken, pork, rice, lentils, rice beer and vegetables all grown locally were the highlight of the festival.

The Bodo community even demonstrated making the dishes and beer to the curious participants. All the preparation for food was done in front of us during the festival using wood stock as fuel in the traditional chulha system. This technique not only enhanced the flavours of local produce but was extremely satisfying.

The food experience was further enhanced when this festival was inaugurated by celebrity chef  Gautam Mehrishi who even cooked a few items for the participants.

Traditional handloom showcase at Manas Spring Festival

Bodo women are known as one of the finest weavers in the entire North East region. The basic raw material used is cotton and silk which is procured from markets of Guwahati city. The traditional motifs used by the Bodo are mainly inspired by nature. The Bodo colours are shades of yellow and red as the base, with green or blue as the accent, and floral patterns inspired by nature. The looms were demonstrated during the Manas Spring festival and traditional garments like Mekhela Chador (Skirt and shawl) and Dokhna (shawl) were on sale.

Sustainable tourism through culture

Bodo tribe is famous for their diverse culture which incorporates dancing and singing during festivals and otherwise. Bihu dance, Jhumur and Bagurumba are some of the traditional dances. All of these dances performances at Manas Spring Festival kept the tourists in awe and camera ready swaying on the beats of He he haiya he he haiya..

Showcasing Nature at Manas Spring Festival

Being on the fringe of Manas National Park, a safari was arranged for participants. You may have read my previous post ‘4 reasons to visit Manas National Park’ and I was excited to find even more reasons and spot more wildlife this time. But the rain gods spoiled our safari and we ended up spotting only a couple of elephants, Malabar red squirrel and a few birds. The safari made up for the rain when we reached Mathanguri on the banks of Manas River for the same charm as last time.

Overall experience of Manas Spring Festival

Camping in tents with no electricity, eating delicious food and knowing a tribe so close were all part of the amazing rural and sustainable tourism at Manas Spring Festival. There are efforts being made to set up a permanent market of traditional clothes, dance and food for the alternative livelihood of the Bodo tribe. If you ever happen to visit Manas National Park, do take some time out to visit Gunzema – The Bodo Ethnic Experience. The information about this centre can be procured from SMOA – Swmkar Mittinga Onsai Afat – 8133069620/9365465351

When to visit Manas Spring Festival

Manas Spring Festival will be held in the months of Spring. Check online the exact dates before planning the travel.

How to Reach Manas 

By Air

The nearest airport to the Manas National Park in Assam is at Gauhati, which is around 176 km from the destination. Gauhati airport is well connected to the other parts of India through New Delhi.

By Rail

Barpeta Road is the junction which is around 32 km away from the Manas National Park. However, you can travel by train to Gauhati railway station and then travel by road Manas.

By Road

From Gauhati, take national highway number 31 to reach Barpeta road. Barpeta to Manas National Park is pretty much a straight road. From there the highway will lead you to Bansbari, which is the entry point of Manas. It will take approximately 4 hours to reach Manas National Park.

Manas Spring Festival Accommodation

While tented accommodation is available, if visitors want a more comfortable or even luxurious experience, there are many options to choose from like The Wild Tiger Resort and Musa Jungle Resort.

Sustainable tips for Manas Spring Festival

• The festival promotes responsible tourism by using no plastic products, using local food and cultural tourism.
• During the festival, if you take the safari, please be sensitive towards forest wildlife.
• Wear camouflage colours which will easily blend with the forest – shades of green, brown and grey.
• Do not talk loudly or make unnecessary noises in the forest.
• Avoid wearing perfumes or body spray in the forest.
• Carry water and food but do not dispose of plastic or leftover food in the forest. Keep it in your bag or vehicle and dispose of safely once you return to the hotel.
• Do not feed anything to wild animals.

I hope this blog on Manas Spring Festival helps you to plan a trip. This festival is taking place in 2021.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. It means it adds no extra cost to you if you book through the link but I get a referral bonus which helps me earn a little to keep this website up and running. Read my Privacy Policy for more.

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