So, what are Kerala Backwaters and why did I want to visit them so badly?

Imagine palm and coconut trees swaying on the bank of endless canals and lagoons, imagine canoe boats going about their day on the calm waters, imagine the sun setting overlooking the paddy fields.

This is exactly the scene from the tranquil Kerala backwaters of Alleppey. 

Backwater is the water turned back in its course by an obstruction, an opposing current or the flow of the tide, or river channel or across the river bar. Backwaters in Kerala are fresh river water that comes down from the river and is then used for the paddy fields. This water, later on, merges with the ocean.

Are backwaters present only in Alleppey?

Kerala Backwaters of Alleppey are the most popular ones with the tourists, so it may come as a surprise that Kerala Backwaters stretch across the entire Malabar coast. Estimated to cumulatively cover around 900kms, backwaters have been the backbone of Kerala state for centuries as they have been used as a transport network for agriculture, fishing, and means of travel for the local communities. 

This tranquil tropical paradise of Kerala has backwater networks all over the state, including in the south and north. Some of them include – Kuttanad, Kumarakom, Cherai Island, Kochi, Kottayam, Kozhikode, Thiruvanathapuram, Thrissur and many more.

However, the Kerala backwaters are those found in and around the coastal city of Alleppey, and that is why Alleppey is the gateway to the Kerala backwaters. Alleppey, also known as Alappuzha, with its coastal setting and sparkling, tranquil backwaters, has been nicknamed the “Venice of the East”.

My experience at Kerala Backwaters Alleppey

Since I was spending the evening and the next morning in Alleppey, I wanted to make the most of my time. I did not want to choose an accommodation that was far from the backwaters and spend time going back and forth. Though there are many Kerala Backwaters resorts and Kerala Backwaters houseboats, I chose a homestay right on the backwaters to relax and unwind. A member from a Facebook group I am a part of had recently visited, and that’s when it hit me to choose this place!

A quick call to the host, Divyashree, and after confirming the availability, she asked me to be dropped off at a point (I do not remember the name). I was not sure how I would reach the homestay, but she assured me there would be someone to pick me up! So I sat back and enjoyed the countryside full of swaying paddy and cormorants basking in the sun’s glory.

The car stopped and the car driver in his heavy Malayali accent informed me that we had reached. I unloaded my bag and tried calling Divya. A man in a starched white shirt and blue checkered lungi called me ‘Madam, Madam’. I ignored thinking he probably wants to sell something, as I look like a tourist. Then he said something, and I heard ‘Divya madam’. And it clicked that he had come to pick me.

 My call with Divya connected till then, and she described the same person, and so I signalled ‘ok’ and started walking towards where he pointed. I walked on a narrow pathway that had a wall on one side and water full of hyacinth on the other side. I reached a small jetty where he asked me to wait, and something about the other guests. I waited while wondering how I going to reach the homestay and how much time it would take. 

A few minutes and 2 international guests later, I boarded a wooden canoe boat with our luggage. I was honestly scared if the boat could handle the weight of 3 guests, a boatman and 5 bags. The boat was super narrow, and the water was more than halfway up the boat. The boatman rigorously canoed with his wooden paddles once on the right and then on his left. I contemplated removing the camera from my bag and gave in to the temptation of the breathtaking landscape.

The boatman exchanged pleasantries with almost every other boat that crossed us till he slowed down near an orange house. He carefully parked the canoe and helped me disembark the boat with my luggage. Divya welcomed me into her house and made me comfortable in the room.

I was not tired, so I just soaked in the view sitting on her home’s parapet, watching the boats go by while she served me tea. We chatted for a bit and she asked me if I wanted to go to the Alleppey town with her but I just wanted to relax here. She offered me a personal canoe ride and I jumped in joy to check the backwaters more personally.

Personal Canoe Ride in Alleppey

At 4 pm, the boatman arrived with an even sleeker canoe that had a mattress and shade. He offered to take me to the lagoon, and the ride would be close to 90 minutes. I hopped in, capturing different visuals of the everyday tranquil life of Alleppey.

• There were tiny and big houses all around the lanes and by-lanes of the backwater. Every house had one or two boats parked outside, just like we have a bike or a car. 
• Small kids rowing their boats in school uniform, with their school bags, returning from school.
• Women with their boats filled with groceries go back home after shopping.
• Vegetable vendors with their boats full of fresh agricultural produce.
• An elderly lady is fishing in the backwaters, and a pot is ready by her side with cut vegetables. How fresh can that meal be?
• A church 
• A coconut vendor selling coconuts to tourists in boats!

The soothing greenery was slowly breaking with the presence of huge houseboats as we approached, exiting the lagoon. The sheer size of them and the blaring music made me uncomfortable. I saw a family in one of the houseboats watching TV!

I asked my boatman to take me back to quieter by-lanes which wouldn’t fit these houseboats, and we took a U-turn. It was almost time for sunset, and he assured me of a good sunset. So he parked the boat and showed me some paddy fields. Indeed, a good sunset.

I came to the house, and the host was ready with dinner. The other guests and I ate a home-cooked traditional meal on the banks of the backwater while the wind chimes chimed in some distance.

I spent some time photographing Divya’s dogs and had a good night.

The next morning was spent on the banks, relaxing in a hammock, watching the boats go by, happy to have made a good choice of choosing a local homestay over luxurious hotels or houseboats.

Things to do in Kerala Backwaters

I have heard of many people getting a bit bored as there is not much to do other than enjoying the pristine backwaters. Hence, people chose Alleppey for a 2-day trip. From my experience,e these are the things to do in Alleppey other than boating:

• Photography: there are ample ways of photography – people, landscape, street (I mean water)
• Birdwatching: In my very limited time, I saw at least 8 birds around my homestay.
• Village walk: Walk in the lanes behind the backwaters and explore the countryside like never before
• Ayurvedic Massage: There are many ayurvedic massage and leg spa centres.

Planning your trip or choosing Kerala Backwaters tour packages?

I always feel it is cheaper to plan and book your trip. Explore Kerala Backwaters like never before by planning your itinerary, just like I did! But if you want to book cruises or boat tours, this is the one to choose! Cruises & boat tours in Alleppey

Best time to visit Kerala Backwaters of Alleppey

The most common question asked is -’ Is it safe to go to Kerala Backwaters in monsoon?’. The answer is No. Kerala is the first state in India where the monsoon sets in, and it lasts for 4 months. The rains are pretty severe, and over the last few years, there have been instances of floods. Though one may plan to go, it is best to avoid Kerala in monsoon. Winter is the best season to enjoy Kerala.

Reaching Kerala Backwaters of Alleppey

Kochi is the nearest airport to the backwaters of Alleppey and is situated at a distance of 55 km. Alleppey can then be reached by car.

Choosing the right accommodation in Alleppey

It may be difficult to choose from the plethora of hotels, houseboats and cruises in Alleppey. My suggestion is to go for a homestay. I stayed at Nomad’s hostel, which can be booked through Airbnb.

Why is choosing a houseboat on Kerala’s backwaters not a sustainable choice?

While Kerala backwaters tourism thrives and advertises its houseboats, here are a few reasons why avoiding them completely or choosing them carefully is important!

• While houseboats (traditionally known as kettuvallam) have been around for a long time, they have been turned into these Kerala backwaters luxury cruises, which have nothing cultural or traditional in them. Some of them are as big as three storeys! 
• These houseboats are run by big companies which offer an ‘intimate Kerala’ experience but rarely hire the locals.
• These houseboats run on diesel, creating noise and emitting fumes that pollute the otherwise pristine water and air. 
• Most houseboats dump the toilet waste and leftover food waste into the water. Mind you, this water is used for all daily rituals like washing, cleaning, bathing, and even fishing by the locals! This pollution is causing a huge impact on the local community. 

As responsible tourists, it is important to be ethical towards the local community and not harm the environment. Thankfully,  the Kerala Government has set up new standards for houseboats, which are classified on various factors of eco-friendliness and responsible tourism. Under the revised scheme approved by the state government, houseboats operating in the backwaters of the state will now be classified as Silver, Gold and Diamond.

Have you been on Kerala backwaters of Alleppey? Did you go on a houseboat? What was your experience like? Tell me in the comments below!

Read More Kerala Posts:

• Eravikulam National Park
• Periyar National Park
• Things to do in Munnar
• Places to visit in Thekkady
• Trekking in Yellapatty
• Things to do in Thiruvananthapuram

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Human by Nature experience in Thekkady: December 2012

Me and my husband arrived late at the hotel and he was running a little fever due to throat infection. The manager on the check-in desk, sensing my husband’s discomfort questioned him about what was bothering him. Upon informing him, he immediately sent turmeric milk and hot water to the room. He even sent a hotel staff to pick up Lozenges and medicines in a nearby town as the hotel was far and had no medical shops nearby. 

After the medicines got dropped off, the manager called us again if we wished to arrange for a doctor’s visit. We respectfully declined to say it was not so serious. My husband felt better the next morning and we couldn’t be sure of how to thank the manager for going out of the way to arrange so much and be so kind, going much more beyond hospitality and being human by nature.

Human by Nature experience in Kumarakom: December 2012

This is the fondest memory of Kerala for me. We were chilling on the banks of the Vembanad lake clicking pictures of the tranquil water overlooking the houseboats. There was no one around who take couple shots of us so we settled for taking each other.

A staff (mostly the restaurant waiter) appeared from nowhere and offered to take our couple photos. He even asked to pose and made us stand at places with a better background. The results were fantastic! Upon asking he said he was a part-time professional photographer who did wedding photoshoots. I saluted his human by nature heart and blessed him!

To this day, those are the best vacation photos we have!

Human by Nature experience in Pattanakad: January 2018

This was a work trip and I had some fantastic experiences during this journey. My family was worried as I was going to a remote place they had not heard of before. Situated 50kms from the popular Alleppey, they still worried about my accommodation and safety.

I reached late evening from Trivandrum to Cherthala, where I had booked my accommodation as Pattanakkad did not have anything and I had a very early morning the next day. Since my train reached late, a female colleague of mine travelled from Changanassery (60 km from Cherthala) to make sure I am comfortable. Even her husband travelled with her so that he can check the safety of my accommodation. 

The hotel manager was luckily the colleague’s husband’s friend and everything worked out fine and safe. But now when I think about it, I often wonder if I would have travelled so long for a colleague. That’s Human by Nature and it was proven once again to me by the people of Kerala. Even my family was bowled over by this gesture.

The next day I stopped my car near a beautiful pier to take pictures. Walking further I met some fishermen who were back from a catch. I couldn’t help but notice the amount of plastic they had in their nets. So much so, I could hardly see any fish! I couldn’t help my curiosity and asked a few questions. The fishermen couldn’t understand but maybe he figured it out as I pointed towards the plastic. He said something with the most disappointing expression. I understood. Smiles were exchanged. The conversation was over followed by photos.

During all my trips, I have met wonderful souls, whose simple nature and effortless hospitality has bowled me over. I have been touched by the fascinating humanscape, beyond the stunning landscapes of Kerala.

Read More Kerala Posts:

• Kerala Backwaters of Alleppey
• Eravikulam National Park
• Periyar National Park
• Things to do in Munnar
• Things to do in Thiruvananthapuram

Watch this lovely video by Kerala Tourism celebrating the Humans of Kerala.

Disclaimer: This post is written in collaboration with Kerala Tourism. However, all opinions and experiences are mine.

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